It is a big call to say in January that you have seen one of your exhibitions of the year, but the Musee Marmottan's Empire of Sleep is the stuff that dreams are made of. I have rarely seen such a beautifully hung, thoughtfully curated show. The mood is set with a first small rotunda, hung with heavy drapes of a deep midnight blue on which hang five depictions of sleep, from a Renaissance St Peter to Monet's baby son. The thematic, eclectic approach is continued throughout, for although the focus is 19th century there are Medieval woodcarvings, Picasso prints and a whole lot more besides. The wall texts and labelling (helpfully dual language) are full of information without sacrificing clarity - the section on Religion for instance lists Biblical associations from the Drunkenness of Noah to the idea of Christ being not dead but sleeping.
The exhibition unfolds in eight sections, including Biblical, classical, erotic, dreams and death. The rich blue walls give way to an equally rich red to sweep you through the developing mood, but this is not just about crowd-pleasing paintings. There is a a serious curatorial line about shifting interpretations of sleep and dreams through the course of the nineteenth century: the exhibition is co-curated by a neurologist, Laura Bossi, and scholarship is at its heart. Effort has also gone into the loans, from literally all over - Grenoble, Montreal, Prague, Skagens, even an Evelyn De Morgan from Cannon Hall near Barnsley - and the effect is a journey of discovery. I was not familiar with Gaetano Previati's work: his Opium Smokers treads an uneasy line between glamour and seediness all painted with a hashish-brown sludge that makes you feel like you may have imbibed yourself. Or Fernand Pelez's Violet Seller, a ruthlessly unsentimental portrayal of a child dying in a doorway which gut-punches with emotion. Or Jules Bastien Lepage's Young Woman Sleeping, a soft focus interior from an artist known for his countryside realism. These discoveries are strung together like pearls by the hang and the curation - individually beautiful but so much more in combination.
One might think that sleep is a narrow theme - a hundred and thirty works of people with their eyes closed - but variety comes from the range of media and the depth of exploration. Goya's famous engraving The Sleep of Reason Produces Monsters is borne out by Fuseli's disturbing eroticism, Maximilián Pirner's La Somnambule perched precariously on a window ledge and Kiki Smith's spidery drawing from 2001. Sculpture comes in the form of Rodin's fragmentary sleeping figure and a Medieval ivory, apostles crammed together in mutual support. The curators are not afraid to venture into high camp, with John Faed's The Dream of the Poet, a John Martin-esque extravaganza of Highland landscape and spectral figures. And there is room for humour too, from David Hockney's dog and John Everett Millais' sleeping sermon goer, kept just the right side of cutesy by his rich palette of reds and purples.
If there is a negative, it is the final bedroom section, which, like a rude awakening, takes you into a brighter lit, more functional space. It almost feels as if the show has accidently spilled over with works crammed awkwardly between stairwell and lift shaft. The Lepage is hung in a corner, next to a similarly stunning Sorolla Mother and Child, two dark heads marooned in a sea of white, distance only serving to emphasise closeness. However, this anticlimax is only really evidence of the woozy pleasure that the previous sections fostered, rather like the comfort of a warm bed and a good night's sleep, this is was an exhibition that I simply didn't want to end.





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